Legally we could have stayed in French Polynesia till September. Back in the states this winter we went through the P.I.T.A. of getting our long stay visas giving us 6 months to relax and meander through the country at an “island pace.” It involved a quick trip to Atlanta, a short interview, and about hundred pieces of paper from banks, police offices, and insurance companies. We had to prove we had enough money and coverage to afford our stay and cover our asses. Thanks to Photoshop, a scanner, and some artful and creative productions on my part, we passed muster with flying colors. Once we arrived, it seemed our visas also canceled out the process of posting a bond; something everyone does when entering the country by boat. Basically you put enough money in some sort of escrow account to cover a plane ticket out of the country so they could put you on a plane and throw you out if they so choose. Everyone complains because you lose money on both banking fees and the currency conversion. I’ve heard of boats losing up to $300 per person not to mention you have well over a thousand dollars each tied up in some foreign bank. The guys at immigration never mentioned a bond to me so I certainly never said a word to them! All in all, the visa was probably worth it even though we chose not to stay for the entire duration. Why didn’t we stay? I hate to keep talking about it but, as Margie mentioned in her last post, cost was a limiting factor for us in French Polynesia. We aren’t paupers living out here in a floating trailer park but my keel is still full of lead ballast…not gold. Cost and value are important to us. And it seems we aren’t the only ones. With the exception of the brand new Four Seasons (where a cheeseburger at the pool will run you $30), the resorts in Bora Bora were operating on less than 30% occupancy. Here in Aitutaki, the Pacific Resort is booked solid for the next two months. This is the first week since January that the resort we visited this morning, the Aitutaki Lagoon Resort and Spa, isn’t full. They’re back to full occupancy next week. And we didn’t even think it was a nice place! Obviously people are starting to figure it out. The same experience, same beauty, similar culture, and better food (in our opinion)…half the cost. On Bora Bora, if you’re staying at one of the island resorts (on the motus) and you want to eat at one of the three or four restaurants on the main island it can cost you $100+ to get there and back not including the meal. It’s just a boat ride away! Don’t believe me? Check out the reviews at Tripadvisor (www.tripadvisor.com) Here on Aitutaki, you jump on your $12 a day scooter and head off. And let me go ahead and put this out there. OVERWATER BUNGALOWS ARE OVERRATED AND OVERPRICED. I know people are finding our site by googling Bora Bora so if this helps just one honeymooning couple make up their mind, I’m satisfied. If money is no object, head to the Societies, get yourself a bungalow, and relax to your heart’s content…if not check out some other places. Start here. I’m in love with it and I’ve seen some fascinating places. www.pacificresort.com

Saturday morning brought with it gloomy skies and clouds that hovered right on the tip of Otemanu Mountain. One glance at the glassy surface of the water and off we went in search of the manta rays we heard were hanging out on the eastern most tip of the island. Saw several eagle rays but no mantas. With the sun trying to poke through later that morning we headed over to the St. Regis. Again, no problems dinghying up and checking out the property. For those of you who followed our journey last year, you may remember us talking about running into Vince Vaughn, Jon Favreau, & Jason Bateman in Tahiti. Couples Retreat, the movie they were in French Poly to shoot, was filmed at the St. Regis resort.

Set on 44 acres, the St. Regis offers 91 overwater and beach villas, 3 restaurants, two pools, a spa located on a separate island, and the Royal Estate, which is a 3 bedroom retreat that includes its own private island, pool, and chef’s kitchen all for the low, low bargain price of $15,000 a night. The whole resort is obviously very luxurious but unfortunately it was a ghost town! Drew liked the layout there better while I was more partial to the Four Seasons.

That night we joined Jeff & Julie for drinks and dinner at the Sunset Bar back at the Four Seasons. They have a brand new thai chef with an all new sushi and thai menu. Drew and I both had a salad that was great while Julie & Jeff had the pad thai with tofu and shrimp. Their dishes came out looking so good I had to be rude and ask for a taste. Shouldn’t have done it. Delicious! Been craving it ever since…

Sunday morning we woke up and both made calls back home to wish both our dads a happy fathers day. Always great to speak to the family. After catching a morning cruise with Zen, Drew had to drag me off of their catamaran. So spacious and such a different feeling than a monohull. No worries though, Dosia, you’re still #1! Jeff, on Flashback, pulled out his spinnaker sail later that afternoon and we all got to do some spinnaker sailing. Best way to describe the spinnaker sail is that it is that big, poofy, oftentimes colorful, sail you usually see on sailboats. When set up right with ropes attached like a swing, if the wind catches that thing you will go flying! Cole and Monique, of Zen, probably took top flights that day and got a good 45 to 50 feet off the water. All with Mt. Otemanu in the backdrop. We had such a great time! We’re going to hate to leave both French Polynesia and the company of the great people we’ve been sharing these waters with for the past few months but we know we’ll see them again somewhere down the water. And we’re already looking forward to it. We’ll see you in Aitutaki, the Cook Islands!

Dressed in our best (which for us these days is anything without a stain), Drew held out his hands and did the all too intriguing “pick one.” Oh…decisions, decisions…okay, left one. 4S. “Okay, looks like today it’s the Four Seaons, tomorrow the St. Regis.” Not knowing whether we’d even be allowed in the resort, we wanted to at least look presentable. Drew even went so far as to pull out a buttondown shirt. “Babe, we’re hopefully going to be poolside and it’s 95 degrees out. I don’t even think Bill Gates would have one on if he were here.” I admired his thought process and found it ridiculously cute.

Surprisingly when we dinghied up to their shuttle docks we got nothing more than a wave and a Tahitian hello. I think somewhere in my mind I had conguered up that because movie stars and the elite are known to frequent here that there would be top notch security and hip designers and jewelers represented on every man and woman in sight. Quite the opposite, actually, and we blended right in.

We toured the grounds, which included a “kiddy island” for the folks to send their offspring to, 121 hideaways, three restaurants, a spa, a fitness center, and a project underway to build private residencies so that for the right price you can become a homeowner on the property! That’s lovely and all but I was more interested in the gym. That was the first time I’d felt air conditioning in two months : )

We found our way to the pool and sat at the bar to get a couple of drinks. Drew told the bartender we were visiting from the St. Regis. No questions asked, the bartender started us a tab by name that we were to simply pay at the front desk when we left the resort. Easy enough! I was so happy!!! Nothing like being in paradise IN paradise. We spent several hours sitting by the pool drinking beers and eating lunch. The lunch was mediocre but at $27 for a panini, I assume we were paying for the atmosphere more so than the food. Nonetheless, a good time was had by all and we’re looking forward to comparing the St. Regis tomorrow. Wait…we should know already…how quickly I forget we are staying there : )

The short trip over from the west side of the island is one that can reek havoc on boaters. It would appear that areas of the reef have been blasted away to accommodate the structuring of resort bungalows or what have you. So our nav charts showed reef where there really wasn’t any and then there were twisty, ‘s’ shaped passages lined with jagged coral that had managed to outlive construction. It acquires precise attention because if you went right when you were supposed to go left, you’d find youreslf stuck on a reef before you could say reverse. Unfortunately for our friends Jeff & Julie on Flashback they learned the hard way and we had to go help them winch their boat off the reef. Minimal damage was done, so that was good, and it was a useful experience for Drew and myself seeing how we’d never had to help anyone do that before.

We managed to avoid a repeat of Teahupoo for Dosia but were still a little on edge navigating her through waters that fluctuated anywhere from twenty to seven feet. Waters so clear and blue it looked like you could just reach your hand in and grab a big handfull of sand. Gorgeous, yes, but a little nerve racking when your boat draws five feet! But we made it and are anchored slap dab in the middle between the Four Seasons and the St. Regis resorts.

I really hate it for those who are fortunate to visit Bora Bora and never see this side of the island. The waters here are unlike anything I have ever seen. Miles and miles of nothing but undisturbed aquas sitting atop pads of white sand. I am all too curious to, hopefully, explore the grounds of these prestigious and elusive resorts, such as the St. Regis which drew the likes of Nicole Kidman, Keith Urban, Eva Longoria, and Tony Parker in its opening weeks back in June of 2006. We’ve heard here and there that most of these places are operating at less than 30% capacity right now. So fingers crossed, due to lack of clientel, they will welcome our business even though we are not shelling out the $900 a night for a room with a view. We already have one of those in Dosia. Instead we’ll just indulge in one of their $20 turkey dogs. Nothing like processed meat to make you feel like you are rubbing elbows with a big wig, huh?!?

Yesterday Drew and I drug up Dosia’s anchor from the depths of the Yacht Club and relocated her over to Bloody Mary’s. We’d heard rumors that in exchange for a little business in the restaurant that we could fill our water tanks at their docks. Well I had promised a great friend back home a hat from there, and we knew they had Hinano on tap, so case was closed. We were there!

Today after waking up and turning six “almost gone” bananas into two loaves of yummy banana nut bread, we headed to Bloody’s for lunch. Shocked to see a reuben on the menu, Drew’s mind was instantly made and I decided on a fresh tuna salad sandwich. We were pleasantly surprised by how good our meals were and highly recommend their lunch menu if you are in the area. Their lunch items range from 900 to 1500 CFP (some of the cheapest we’ve seen for lunch other than roadside roulottes) and it was good, quality food. I got completely schmoozed by a beautiful cat who has obviously made itself a staple at the restaurant. She so casually wandered up and gave me that “I’m so hungry” look so I shared my tuna. She’d no more cleaned her paws when she saw lunch delivered to another table and before I knew it I was face to face with her backside. Worked. Oh well…

Full bellies, a hat, key to the water dock, and we were on our way, eager to get over to the east side of the island. Drew had dinghy explored the other day and said it looks absolutely gorgeous. Oh, btw, for any fellow cruisers who are in the area or will be here at some point and plan to stay at the Yacht Club…they offer laundry services. They have three washers, a dryer, and it is 700 CFP a wash, same for a dry. At 1400 a load, it too, is some of the cheapest we’ve come across. And we hang dry on the boat so 700 a wash seemed like a complete steal to us. Just wanted to pass the info along!

It seems Bora Bora either delights or disappoints sailors.  I’ve heard it called “Boring Boring” by some while others proclaim it their favorite spot in Polynesia.  I admit I was shocked by the beauty of Huahine and if we hadn’t been so excited to meet up with everyone of Friday night we’d probably still be there exploring all the anchorages and small private beaches.  But Bora Bora is what it is; a unique island surrounded by a beautiful lagoon that attracts honeymooners and wealthy vacationers from around the globe.  This is now my third time visiting the island and Margie’s second so we arrived with a good sense of the layout and what to do.  For instance, we already know that renting a car here is a waste of money.  We know Bloody Mary’s has Hinano on tap and is a fine place for a beer but not diner.  And we know that to really experience what made this place famous we need to crash visit the resorts on the islands in the lagoon (the motus).  So that’s our plan.  In the next couple of days we’ll move over to the east side of the main island and spend a couple of days checking out the posh St Regis, the brand new Four Seasons, and several others I’m sure.  It’s the less popular side of the island because of the eight foot depth limit that restricts larger boats from making the trip.  It’s also the more beautiful side of Bora Bora with several square miles of white sand bottom backed up to palm fringed beaches.  Sounds like a great place to finish up our time in French Polynesia!

Here’s a couple of shots from the Bora Bora Yacht Club.

I think Margie mentioned it in an earlier post but I updated our About the Journey page to reflect our plans for the next couple of months.  Check it out!

Living on a boat is interesting. Drew and I usually find ourselves to be one of few couples, or groups, in our age bracket that have chosen to spend this time in our lives sailing. Most people whose waves you cross out here are closer to our parents age and this has been their dream for as long as they can remember…often times longer than Drew or myself have been alive. We constantly try to remove our feet from our mouths, having to say “oh…we didn’t mean it that way” when we refer to the older age bracket of most of our fellow travelers. There is never an ounce of disrespect in our words. Just blatant fact. It’s okay mom and dad…god willing, Drew and I will be listening to our kids do the same thing one day.

However, believe me…there may be a few more years notched on their belts but whatever the age, be it 40, 50, 60, or even 70…EVERYONE OUT HERE IS YOUNG AT HEART.

Truth is…whether you’ve had this dream for thirty years, or ten, there is a connection you find amongst yourselves, no matter the age difference, unlike that of anything I have ever experienced. The more I learn about sailing the more I’ll be able to participate in conversations but for now, I mostly sit back and listen to Drew and our newest companions (usually males) talk about types of engines, outboard motors, dinghys, satellites, weather patterns. All the while laughing to myself as they each try to hide behind their polarized sunglass lenses when the occasional female walks by on the dock or glides by in in a boat. And even though I might not understand it all just yet, my heart is happy because there is never a time that Drew’s face lights up more than it does when he is talking about his pride and joy, Dosia

We often get the questions that you would normally expect people to ask us–how are you able to do this at such a young age…how can you afford it…what do your parents think about you being all the way out here…(the inevitable) how did you guys meet (we always have fun telling that one)…what about jobs…are you nervous to go back at the end and basically start all over…

We cant, and won’t lie, that returning back to the states after our journey is over (whenever that shall be) is scary. We pretty much know our life as far as November and even that is not set in stone. After that’s its an open book. Drew does his best to keep us in a position where we will not go home to nothing but you do find yourself faced with the fact that according to the “norm” we should be settling down, focusing on careers, saving money, etc.

I have not had the pleasure to meet the couple below, Antonia and Peter, just yet, or their one and a half year old son, Silas, who has joined in their journey and is now on their boat with them. Drew met them in the boatyard in Ecuador. They are now getting ready to leave New Zealand and move to Fiji on their boat. And we want to introduce you to them because she is hands down one of the funniest and best blog writers we have ever come across. I wanted to correlate this blog in with one that she wrote and it all has to do with the many questions we face spending these years in our lives on a boat. I have never heard it said better…

“The first time I decided to go sailing, it was 1999, and everyone who knew their way around a computer was busy making their first million, while I savvily decided to drop out on a sailboat in the Caribbean. This earned me a net profit of zero dollars, though it did set my life on a fairly consistent path of seeking more boats on which to drop out, spoiling any long-term career ambitions I may once have had and ensuring that any money I ever made would quickly be squandered on marinized stainless steel and underwater epoxy.

But now I’m thirty-four years old, a real grown-up, a mother. Silas is just learning how to walk. I should be shopping for the best preschool, working my way up the corporate ladder, saving for college and retirement, buying a home and a better car and acquiring a mortgage. Or at least, that’s what the pictures on TV tell me I should be doing.

But one day ten years ago, while sailing through the Bahamas, I leaned backwards over the lifelines and I saw: the pink sky at dawn over a rose-tinted sea. The sun glimmering over the horizon and the moon, watchful in the heavens. I had the sensation of skimming over the surface of a water-washed planet, a human with a place in an intricate cosmos.

That’s what I want to give my son.”

Cheers to that.

The sail over to Tahiti from Bora Bora took twice as long as I thought but I guess you can say that’s typical of sailing.  I forgot about that westerly current that  pushed me backwards a knot in the direction from whence I came.  I was finally able to grab a wind shift and sail at an angle that made much more sense for my intended destination.  It’s been such a long time since I sailed upwind I forgot about the excitement that goes into it.   The rail spent most of the morning in the water yesterday.  To you non-sailors, the boat was heeled over so far the deck was awash.  That means I was going fast, not thinking of safety, and seeing if I could break anything.  After miles of easy downwind sailing, it was fun to push Dosia to her limits again and remember why I put so much hard work into making her seaworthy.  So there it is, my first overnight solo passage and I gotta say, I don’t like it.  I don’t understand solo sailors and how they do it or why they even want to.  I guess many don’t have a choice cause if they did, I assume they’d sail with a beautiful woman like I do (no offense Aaron…you were a good mate last year man).  In the end though, I guess it’s not who you are voyaging with as much as the fact you are actually out there doing it, living life the way you demand it be lived.

And that brings me to my not-so-official quote of the week.  I was reminded of this quote reading a fellow Pearson 365 owner’s blog.  I used to have a copy of Sterling Hayden’s book, The Wanderer.  I have no idea what happened to it but I remember reading it 10 years or more ago and falling in love with the concept.  A hollywood actor in the 50′s, distraught with the industry, accused of being a communist, and pissed about his recent divorce, takes the kids and runs off on his sailboat to Tahiti. You may recognize him at the cop Michael Corleone kills in The Godfather but probably not as it was years after this photo was taken.  A famous quote from his book describes exactly what I’m doing out here and why I’m doing it at this point in my life.  Sterling Hayden died from prostate cancer at age 70.

“To be truly challenging, a voyage, like a life, must rest on a firm foundation of financial unrest. Otherwise, you are doomed to a routine traverse, the kind known to yachtsmen who play with their boats at sea… cruising, it is called. Voyaging belongs to seamen, and to the wanderers of the world who cannot, or will not, fit in. If you are contemplating a voyage and you have the means, abandon the venture until your fortunes change. Only then will you know what the sea is all about. “I’ve always wanted to sail to the south seas, but I can’t afford it.” What these men can’t afford is not to go. They are enmeshed in the cancerous discipline of security. And in the worship of security we fling our lives beneath the wheels of routine – and before we know it our lives are gone. What does a man need – really need? A few pounds of food each day, heat and shelter, six feet to lie down in – and some form of working activity that will yield a sense of accomplishment. That’s all – in the material sense, and we know it. But we are brainwashed by our economic system until we end up in a tomb beneath a pyramid of time payments, mortgages, preposterous gadgetry, playthings that divert our attention for the sheer idiocy of the charade. The years thunder by, the dreams of youth grow dim where they lie caked in dust on the shelves of patience. Before we know it, the tomb is sealed. Where, then, lies the answer? In choice. Which shall it be: bankruptcy of purse or bankruptcy of life?”

Click on the image for a larger view.

Here’s where I’m sitting on Bora Bora right now.  It’s gorgeous again today but there is little wind and I really want to SAIL to Tahiti so I’ll hang out here and wait till it comes.  Tourism is dying a slow death in this country.  I read an article last night that another cruise ship is leaving the waters of French Polynesia.  The Star Flyer is taking off next year.  That’s after the loss of the Tahitian Princess last December which knocked tourism volume back to 1996 levels.  Not that I’m a big fan of cruise ships but they bring in huge numbers of tourists and bring a place that’s ridiculously expensive down to an affordable level for many folks.  The new president recently described the tourist situation in Polynesia as catastrophic.  And now the country has one more thing on their hands.  I had no idea I was in the middle of an epidemic.

Health officials declare type 4 dengue fever epidemic on Taha’a, Bora Bora

(Tahitipresse) – A steady increase in the number of type 4 dengue fever cases has prompted French Polynesia public health officials to declare an epidemic on the Leeward Islands of Taha’a and Bora Bora with 10 and 5 cases respectively.

Epidemic aside (all 5 cases of it), everyone needs to go to Where In The World Are The Cook Islands and enter to win a free trip to the Cook Islands. Maybe you can visit us there later this year.

So what do you think of the site? I put it together using free software called WordPress and an $80 theme called Thesis. This is my first attempt at setting up my own website so it’s pretty basic…I know. At least I don’t have to wait on anyone to fix anything. If I want to make a change I do the research and change it. Not a bad deal for $80.

I’m still moored here at the Yacht Club. I’ve spent a lot of time on the internet wrapping up my stateside life for a while. I bought an unlimited access account from Iaoranet and I get a pretty good connection all the way out here at the second to last mooring. I figure it’s best to get all this done now before Margie gets here and we’re out filming or having fun somewhere. It’s good to have this transition time back into the cruising life as the two couldn’t be on farther extremes of lifestyle spectrum. It’s a bit depressing to be on “the romantic island,” surrounded by honeymooning couples, by myself but I get along ok. There’s always some entertainment to be had at the club. Last night they brought in a band and I had the best night I’ve had since my return. In the words of Anthony Bourdain, “there is nothing finer in this world than a good pub” and the BBYC on a Friday night is about as close as I’ve found to a good pub in this area of French Polynesia. You would think that some French sailor would settle down on one of the islands around here and open up a dive bar on the water. Cans of Hinano for 350 cfp and a 400lb polynesian guy sweating into the fryer out back would be great. Instead, a visit to a bar usually involves drinking a beer next to young Australian newlyweds dining on foie gras or a delicate duck confit. I’ve seen older photos of the inside of this yacht club covered in yacht burgees, t-shirts, and stickers but those days are no more. It’s a bonified restaurant nowadays that also happens to have a bar that’s a great time on Friday nights. Highly recommended to anyone visiting this area.

Sandwiches are my life right now. I have no cooking gas and no expectations to have any till later this week in Tahiti. See, trying to devise the safest propane install possible, I neglected to learn that horizontally mounted propane tanks come with a new-fangled fill valve that is basically impossible to get filled overseas. So now I have my tank safely mounted on the transom where any possible leak will drift or blow overboard and I have no gas to leak. I’m in contact with some guys in Tahiti that should be able to help me out even if I have to completely replace the valve with some European style. Ham, turkey, and cheese have become my best friends followed closely by the premade Chicken ceasar salads they have in the grocery store (which oddly come with italian dressing) and the occasional cold can of beef stew or even meatballs from Ecuador.

Tomorrow…maybe…I’ll depart for the Tahiti/Moorea area where I’ll stay for the next few weeks till Margie gets here. That’s right, I’m moving from “the romantic island” to “the island of love.” There’s supposed to be a cool sandbar on the southside of Tahiti a buddy recommends.  Maybe I’ll check that out.  Hehe…