Oh what a wonderful day it was. And our passage only took twenty one days. The majority of people we met in the Pacific this year took more than twenty five days and many took close to forty! It all depends on your luck with the wind and we had some great luck.

We’re still hanging out stateside.  We’ve been here a little over two weeks and head back in Auckland on New Year’s Eve!  Besides using this time to catch up with family and friends I’ve been doing a little behind-the-scenes work on the website.  So if something disappears or no longer functions, you know who to blame.  Some friends notified us of the fact we were voted one of the 50 Must Read Boating Blogs by boatinsurance.org And back in August we were voted Website of the Week by Cruisingcompass.com (by Blue Water Sailing).   Nice!  Keeping a blog while traveling can sometimes be a pain in the ass.  It’s nice to know people are reading and appreciating.

Here’s the third installment in the Lost On Purpose series produced by Aaron Hodgins Davis.  After escaping Ecuador and pausing in the Galapagos, we were finally on our way across the Pacific.  This shows you just how boring it can be out there!  Make sure to watch the scene during the credits.  It’s hilarious!

This is the first of 8 videos from last year.  My crew, Aaron, did a lot of the filming and all of the editing.  They are awesome!

This episode covers the mainland of Ecuador and the hassle I went through with the government there to get Dosia cleared out.

Sorry, but you gotta watch the 30 second commercial first!

Now that we’re back in the world of fast internet connections, we were finally able to view the videos/movies that our crew last year, Aaron Hodgins, put together. Here’s the trailer!  You can view all of the others by clicking the “Videos” tab above or click right here!

Legally we could have stayed in French Polynesia till September. Back in the states this winter we went through the P.I.T.A. of getting our long stay visas giving us 6 months to relax and meander through the country at an “island pace.” It involved a quick trip to Atlanta, a short interview, and about hundred pieces of paper from banks, police offices, and insurance companies. We had to prove we had enough money and coverage to afford our stay and cover our asses. Thanks to Photoshop, a scanner, and some artful and creative productions on my part, we passed muster with flying colors. Once we arrived, it seemed our visas also canceled out the process of posting a bond; something everyone does when entering the country by boat. Basically you put enough money in some sort of escrow account to cover a plane ticket out of the country so they could put you on a plane and throw you out if they so choose. Everyone complains because you lose money on both banking fees and the currency conversion. I’ve heard of boats losing up to $300 per person not to mention you have well over a thousand dollars each tied up in some foreign bank. The guys at immigration never mentioned a bond to me so I certainly never said a word to them! All in all, the visa was probably worth it even though we chose not to stay for the entire duration. Why didn’t we stay? I hate to keep talking about it but, as Margie mentioned in her last post, cost was a limiting factor for us in French Polynesia. We aren’t paupers living out here in a floating trailer park but my keel is still full of lead ballast…not gold. Cost and value are important to us. And it seems we aren’t the only ones. With the exception of the brand new Four Seasons (where a cheeseburger at the pool will run you $30), the resorts in Bora Bora were operating on less than 30% occupancy. Here in Aitutaki, the Pacific Resort is booked solid for the next two months. This is the first week since January that the resort we visited this morning, the Aitutaki Lagoon Resort and Spa, isn’t full. They’re back to full occupancy next week. And we didn’t even think it was a nice place! Obviously people are starting to figure it out. The same experience, same beauty, similar culture, and better food (in our opinion)…half the cost. On Bora Bora, if you’re staying at one of the island resorts (on the motus) and you want to eat at one of the three or four restaurants on the main island it can cost you $100+ to get there and back not including the meal. It’s just a boat ride away! Don’t believe me? Check out the reviews at Tripadvisor (www.tripadvisor.com) Here on Aitutaki, you jump on your $12 a day scooter and head off. And let me go ahead and put this out there. OVERWATER BUNGALOWS ARE OVERRATED AND OVERPRICED. I know people are finding our site by googling Bora Bora so if this helps just one honeymooning couple make up their mind, I’m satisfied. If money is no object, head to the Societies, get yourself a bungalow, and relax to your heart’s content…if not check out some other places. Start here. I’m in love with it and I’ve seen some fascinating places. www.pacificresort.com

Saturday morning brought with it gloomy skies and clouds that hovered right on the tip of Otemanu Mountain. One glance at the glassy surface of the water and off we went in search of the manta rays we heard were hanging out on the eastern most tip of the island. Saw several eagle rays but no mantas. With the sun trying to poke through later that morning we headed over to the St. Regis. Again, no problems dinghying up and checking out the property. For those of you who followed our journey last year, you may remember us talking about running into Vince Vaughn, Jon Favreau, & Jason Bateman in Tahiti. Couples Retreat, the movie they were in French Poly to shoot, was filmed at the St. Regis resort.

Set on 44 acres, the St. Regis offers 91 overwater and beach villas, 3 restaurants, two pools, a spa located on a separate island, and the Royal Estate, which is a 3 bedroom retreat that includes its own private island, pool, and chef’s kitchen all for the low, low bargain price of $15,000 a night. The whole resort is obviously very luxurious but unfortunately it was a ghost town! Drew liked the layout there better while I was more partial to the Four Seasons.

That night we joined Jeff & Julie for drinks and dinner at the Sunset Bar back at the Four Seasons. They have a brand new thai chef with an all new sushi and thai menu. Drew and I both had a salad that was great while Julie & Jeff had the pad thai with tofu and shrimp. Their dishes came out looking so good I had to be rude and ask for a taste. Shouldn’t have done it. Delicious! Been craving it ever since…

Sunday morning we woke up and both made calls back home to wish both our dads a happy fathers day. Always great to speak to the family. After catching a morning cruise with Zen, Drew had to drag me off of their catamaran. So spacious and such a different feeling than a monohull. No worries though, Dosia, you’re still #1! Jeff, on Flashback, pulled out his spinnaker sail later that afternoon and we all got to do some spinnaker sailing. Best way to describe the spinnaker sail is that it is that big, poofy, oftentimes colorful, sail you usually see on sailboats. When set up right with ropes attached like a swing, if the wind catches that thing you will go flying! Cole and Monique, of Zen, probably took top flights that day and got a good 45 to 50 feet off the water. All with Mt. Otemanu in the backdrop. We had such a great time! We’re going to hate to leave both French Polynesia and the company of the great people we’ve been sharing these waters with for the past few months but we know we’ll see them again somewhere down the water. And we’re already looking forward to it. We’ll see you in Aitutaki, the Cook Islands!

Dressed in our best (which for us these days is anything without a stain), Drew held out his hands and did the all too intriguing “pick one.” Oh…decisions, decisions…okay, left one. 4S. “Okay, looks like today it’s the Four Seaons, tomorrow the St. Regis.” Not knowing whether we’d even be allowed in the resort, we wanted to at least look presentable. Drew even went so far as to pull out a buttondown shirt. “Babe, we’re hopefully going to be poolside and it’s 95 degrees out. I don’t even think Bill Gates would have one on if he were here.” I admired his thought process and found it ridiculously cute.

Surprisingly when we dinghied up to their shuttle docks we got nothing more than a wave and a Tahitian hello. I think somewhere in my mind I had conguered up that because movie stars and the elite are known to frequent here that there would be top notch security and hip designers and jewelers represented on every man and woman in sight. Quite the opposite, actually, and we blended right in.

We toured the grounds, which included a “kiddy island” for the folks to send their offspring to, 121 hideaways, three restaurants, a spa, a fitness center, and a project underway to build private residencies so that for the right price you can become a homeowner on the property! That’s lovely and all but I was more interested in the gym. That was the first time I’d felt air conditioning in two months : )

We found our way to the pool and sat at the bar to get a couple of drinks. Drew told the bartender we were visiting from the St. Regis. No questions asked, the bartender started us a tab by name that we were to simply pay at the front desk when we left the resort. Easy enough! I was so happy!!! Nothing like being in paradise IN paradise. We spent several hours sitting by the pool drinking beers and eating lunch. The lunch was mediocre but at $27 for a panini, I assume we were paying for the atmosphere more so than the food. Nonetheless, a good time was had by all and we’re looking forward to comparing the St. Regis tomorrow. Wait…we should know already…how quickly I forget we are staying there : )

The short trip over from the west side of the island is one that can reek havoc on boaters. It would appear that areas of the reef have been blasted away to accommodate the structuring of resort bungalows or what have you. So our nav charts showed reef where there really wasn’t any and then there were twisty, ‘s’ shaped passages lined with jagged coral that had managed to outlive construction. It acquires precise attention because if you went right when you were supposed to go left, you’d find youreslf stuck on a reef before you could say reverse. Unfortunately for our friends Jeff & Julie on Flashback they learned the hard way and we had to go help them winch their boat off the reef. Minimal damage was done, so that was good, and it was a useful experience for Drew and myself seeing how we’d never had to help anyone do that before.

We managed to avoid a repeat of Teahupoo for Dosia but were still a little on edge navigating her through waters that fluctuated anywhere from twenty to seven feet. Waters so clear and blue it looked like you could just reach your hand in and grab a big handfull of sand. Gorgeous, yes, but a little nerve racking when your boat draws five feet! But we made it and are anchored slap dab in the middle between the Four Seasons and the St. Regis resorts.

I really hate it for those who are fortunate to visit Bora Bora and never see this side of the island. The waters here are unlike anything I have ever seen. Miles and miles of nothing but undisturbed aquas sitting atop pads of white sand. I am all too curious to, hopefully, explore the grounds of these prestigious and elusive resorts, such as the St. Regis which drew the likes of Nicole Kidman, Keith Urban, Eva Longoria, and Tony Parker in its opening weeks back in June of 2006. We’ve heard here and there that most of these places are operating at less than 30% capacity right now. So fingers crossed, due to lack of clientel, they will welcome our business even though we are not shelling out the $900 a night for a room with a view. We already have one of those in Dosia. Instead we’ll just indulge in one of their $20 turkey dogs. Nothing like processed meat to make you feel like you are rubbing elbows with a big wig, huh?!?

Yesterday Drew and I drug up Dosia’s anchor from the depths of the Yacht Club and relocated her over to Bloody Mary’s. We’d heard rumors that in exchange for a little business in the restaurant that we could fill our water tanks at their docks. Well I had promised a great friend back home a hat from there, and we knew they had Hinano on tap, so case was closed. We were there!

Today after waking up and turning six “almost gone” bananas into two loaves of yummy banana nut bread, we headed to Bloody’s for lunch. Shocked to see a reuben on the menu, Drew’s mind was instantly made and I decided on a fresh tuna salad sandwich. We were pleasantly surprised by how good our meals were and highly recommend their lunch menu if you are in the area. Their lunch items range from 900 to 1500 CFP (some of the cheapest we’ve seen for lunch other than roadside roulottes) and it was good, quality food. I got completely schmoozed by a beautiful cat who has obviously made itself a staple at the restaurant. She so casually wandered up and gave me that “I’m so hungry” look so I shared my tuna. She’d no more cleaned her paws when she saw lunch delivered to another table and before I knew it I was face to face with her backside. Worked. Oh well…

Full bellies, a hat, key to the water dock, and we were on our way, eager to get over to the east side of the island. Drew had dinghy explored the other day and said it looks absolutely gorgeous. Oh, btw, for any fellow cruisers who are in the area or will be here at some point and plan to stay at the Yacht Club…they offer laundry services. They have three washers, a dryer, and it is 700 CFP a wash, same for a dry. At 1400 a load, it too, is some of the cheapest we’ve come across. And we hang dry on the boat so 700 a wash seemed like a complete steal to us. Just wanted to pass the info along!

It seems Bora Bora either delights or disappoints sailors.  I’ve heard it called “Boring Boring” by some while others proclaim it their favorite spot in Polynesia.  I admit I was shocked by the beauty of Huahine and if we hadn’t been so excited to meet up with everyone of Friday night we’d probably still be there exploring all the anchorages and small private beaches.  But Bora Bora is what it is; a unique island surrounded by a beautiful lagoon that attracts honeymooners and wealthy vacationers from around the globe.  This is now my third time visiting the island and Margie’s second so we arrived with a good sense of the layout and what to do.  For instance, we already know that renting a car here is a waste of money.  We know Bloody Mary’s has Hinano on tap and is a fine place for a beer but not diner.  And we know that to really experience what made this place famous we need to crash visit the resorts on the islands in the lagoon (the motus).  So that’s our plan.  In the next couple of days we’ll move over to the east side of the main island and spend a couple of days checking out the posh St Regis, the brand new Four Seasons, and several others I’m sure.  It’s the less popular side of the island because of the eight foot depth limit that restricts larger boats from making the trip.  It’s also the more beautiful side of Bora Bora with several square miles of white sand bottom backed up to palm fringed beaches.  Sounds like a great place to finish up our time in French Polynesia!

Here’s a couple of shots from the Bora Bora Yacht Club.

I think Margie mentioned it in an earlier post but I updated our About the Journey page to reflect our plans for the next couple of months.  Check it out!