Category: French Polynesia

  • Back to Tahiti

    The sail over to Tahiti from Bora Bora took twice as long as I thought but I guess you can say that’s typical of sailing.  I forgot about that westerly current that  pushed me backwards a knot in the direction from whence I came.  I was finally able to grab a wind shift and sail at an angle that made much more sense for my intended destination.  It’s been such a long time since I sailed upwind I forgot about the excitement that goes into it.   The rail spent most of the morning in the water yesterday.  To you non-sailors, the boat was heeled over so far the deck was awash.  That means I was going fast, not thinking of safety, and seeing if I could break anything.  After miles of easy downwind sailing, it was fun to push Dosia to her limits again and remember why I put so much hard work into making her seaworthy.  So there it is, my first overnight solo passage and I gotta say, I don’t like it.  I don’t understand solo sailors and how they do it or why they even want to.  I guess many don’t have a choice cause if they did, I assume they’d sail with a beautiful woman like I do (no offense Aaron…you were a good mate last year man).  In the end though, I guess it’s not who you are voyaging with as much as the fact you are actually out there doing it, living life the way you demand it be lived.

    And that brings me to my not-so-official quote of the week.  I was reminded of this quote reading a fellow Pearson 365 owner’s blog.  I used to have a copy of Sterling Hayden’s book, The Wanderer.  I have no idea what happened to it but I remember reading it 10 years or more ago and falling in love with the concept.  A hollywood actor in the 50’s, distraught with the industry, accused of being a communist, and pissed about his recent divorce, takes the kids and runs off on his sailboat to Tahiti. You may recognize him at the cop Michael Corleone kills in The Godfather but probably not as it was years after this photo was taken.  A famous quote from his book describes exactly what I’m doing out here and why I’m doing it at this point in my life.  Sterling Hayden died from prostate cancer at age 70.

    Sterling Hayden“To be truly challenging, a voyage, like a life, must rest on a firm foundation of financial unrest. Otherwise, you are doomed to a routine traverse, the kind known to yachtsmen who play with their boats at sea… cruising, it is called. Voyaging belongs to seamen, and to the wanderers of the world who cannot, or will not, fit in. If you are contemplating a voyage and you have the means, abandon the venture until your fortunes change. Only then will you know what the sea is all about. “I’ve always wanted to sail to the south seas, but I can’t afford it.” What these men can’t afford is not to go. They are enmeshed in the cancerous discipline of security. And in the worship of security we fling our lives beneath the wheels of routine – and before we know it our lives are gone. What does a man need – really need? A few pounds of food each day, heat and shelter, six feet to lie down in – and some form of working activity that will yield a sense of accomplishment. That’s all – in the material sense, and we know it. But we are brainwashed by our economic system until we end up in a tomb beneath a pyramid of time payments, mortgages, preposterous gadgetry, playthings that divert our attention for the sheer idiocy of the charade. The years thunder by, the dreams of youth grow dim where they lie caked in dust on the shelves of patience. Before we know it, the tomb is sealed. Where, then, lies the answer? In choice. Which shall it be: bankruptcy of purse or bankruptcy of life?”

  • Dengue Fever on Bora Bora

    Satellite image of Bora Bora Click on the image for a larger view.

    Here’s where I’m sitting on Bora Bora right now.  It’s gorgeous again today but there is little wind and I really want to SAIL to Tahiti so I’ll hang out here and wait till it comes.  Tourism is dying a slow death in this country.  I read an article last night that another cruise ship is leaving the waters of French Polynesia.  The Star Flyer is taking off next year.  That’s after the loss of the Tahitian Princess last December which knocked tourism volume back to 1996 levels.  Not that I’m a big fan of cruise ships but they bring in huge numbers of tourists and bring a place that’s ridiculously expensive down to an affordable level for many folks.  The new president recently described the tourist situation in Polynesia as catastrophic.  And now the country has one more thing on their hands.  I had no idea I was in the middle of an epidemic.

    Health officials declare type 4 dengue fever epidemic on Taha’a, Bora Bora

    (Tahitipresse) – A steady increase in the number of type 4 dengue fever cases has prompted French Polynesia public health officials to declare an epidemic on the Leeward Islands of Taha’a and Bora Bora with 10 and 5 cases respectively.

    Epidemic aside (all 5 cases of it), everyone needs to go to Where In The World Are The Cook Islands and enter to win a free trip to the Cook Islands. Maybe you can visit us there later this year.

  • The Romantic Island

    So what do you think of the site? I put it together using free software called WordPress and an $80 theme called Thesis. This is my first attempt at setting up my own website so it’s pretty basic…I know. At least I don’t have to wait on anyone to fix anything. If I want to make a change I do the research and change it. Not a bad deal for $80.

    I’m still moored here at the Yacht Club. I’ve spent a lot of time on the internet wrapping up my stateside life for a while. I bought an unlimited access account from Iaoranet and I get a pretty good connection all the way out here at the second to last mooring. I figure it’s best to get all this done now before Margie gets here and we’re out filming or having fun somewhere. It’s good to have this transition time back into the cruising life as the two couldn’t be on farther extremes of lifestyle spectrum. It’s a bit depressing to be on “the romantic island,” surrounded by honeymooning couples, by myself but I get along ok. There’s always some entertainment to be had at the club. Last night they brought in a band and I had the best night I’ve had since my return. In the words of Anthony Bourdain, “there is nothing finer in this world than a good pub” and the BBYC on a Friday night is about as close as I’ve found to a good pub in this area of French Polynesia. You would think that some French sailor would settle down on one of the islands around here and open up a dive bar on the water. Cans of Hinano for 350 cfp and a 400lb polynesian guy sweating into the fryer out back would be great. Instead, a visit to a bar usually involves drinking a beer next to young Australian newlyweds dining on foie gras or a delicate duck confit. I’ve seen older photos of the inside of this yacht club covered in yacht burgees, t-shirts, and stickers but those days are no more. It’s a bonified restaurant nowadays that also happens to have a bar that’s a great time on Friday nights. Highly recommended to anyone visiting this area.

    Sandwiches are my life right now. I have no cooking gas and no expectations to have any till later this week in Tahiti. See, trying to devise the safest propane install possible, I neglected to learn that horizontally mounted propane tanks come with a new-fangled fill valve that is basically impossible to get filled overseas. So now I have my tank safely mounted on the transom where any possible leak will drift or blow overboard and I have no gas to leak. I’m in contact with some guys in Tahiti that should be able to help me out even if I have to completely replace the valve with some European style. Ham, turkey, and cheese have become my best friends followed closely by the premade Chicken ceasar salads they have in the grocery store (which oddly come with italian dressing) and the occasional cold can of beef stew or even meatballs from Ecuador.

    Tomorrow…maybe…I’ll depart for the Tahiti/Moorea area where I’ll stay for the next few weeks till Margie gets here. That’s right, I’m moving from “the romantic island” to “the island of love.” There’s supposed to be a cool sandbar on the southside of Tahiti a buddy recommends.  Maybe I’ll check that out.  Hehe…

  • Bloody Mary’s to the Bora Bora Yacht Club

    I’m over in Bora Bora now. I’ve been here for 2 nights. I spent the first night over at the moorings in front of Bloody Mary’s Restaurant. It’s considered somewhat of an institution down here. Margie and I hung out there last year when we took the cruise on the Tahitian Princess. Dosia’s motor was being overhauled in Tahiti and it was cheaper to take a cruise than to get a room and stay there. Anyways, I figured I’d visit again and have a few beers. It’s an interesting place with a sand floor, a shoe check at the door, and the bathrooms resemble some sort of water-garden orgy. The only thing I’ve actually eaten at Bloodys was last year when Margie and I put in for an order of wings at $18 and got four, yes four whole chicken wings. Our friends Matt and Alicja ordered the kabobs at the same price and got a good laugh when one little kabob arrived on the plate. They lay out a huge spread of fresh seafood near the door and the patrons are brought up from the tables to order their cuts right off the ice. A lot of guests eat there as part of the package tour, some come from a cruise ship visiting the lagoon, others just show up. Regardless of how they find it, the reviews of the food at Bloody Marys are usually less than stellar so I’ll let those with the “vacation dollars” in hand partake in the eating and I’ll partake in the relatively cheap beer.

    The next morning I moved over to the moorings in front of the Bora Bora Yacht Club and got a bunch of odd jobs done. Every project takes forever cause I’m suffering from CRAFTs disease (Can’t Remember a Flipping Thing). I don’t know what I was thinking when I last reorganized the boat but I must have been intoxicated. I put tools and parts in places I can’t fathom so I spend twenty minutes looking for things just to start a particular job. Last year, the problems that left us sailing 1500 miles without an engine eventually spawned a major overhaul including the purchase of a new bottom end. If you don’t know what that is, visualize a motor as a big cardboard box, cut off the bottom two-thirds of it, and replace it. It was no small job but Harvé and Pascal at Ocean Carenage did quick change out with a used Perkins 4-108 they happened to have laying around. So now I have a Perkins 4-108 bottom-end with a Westerbeke W40 (essentially a Perkins 4-107) top-end. It’s an interesting mix but it seems to work and that’s what matters in this part of the world. Without an engine, the reef passes are scary especially when they are in the lee of a mountainous island like the situation we ran into in Ua Pou. Just ask Margie about the bag she packed to jump overboard with as we “sailed into” that harbor last year. So anyways, I had a little work to do on the engine to calibrate the new parts with my existing gauges and it took most of the first day here.

    Last night I headed over to the Yacht Club to check it out and have a few beers. As far as real estate goes, this place blows Bloody Mary’s out of the water…literally. The thatched roof, the deck that stretches out over the reef, the attached over-water bungalows, it’s the quinessential South Pacific scene. Once again, I wasn’t there to eat but I can tell you the kitchen smells spectacular. The new owner, Teiva is a well-trained chef who worked at some famous restaurant in California. He and his wife Jessica live in one of the attached bungalows with their kid. They are working to turn the bad reputation of the BBYC into a shiny new future and it looks like it’s working. I wish them the best of luck.