Category: Beveridge Reef

  • Day 3 Passage to Beveridge Reef and Niue

    All is well out here on the open seas. It’s Friday afternoon and we’re about 115 miles from Beveridge Reef sailing along at 6.5 knots under full mizzen and slightly furled genoa. We’ll have to slow down overnight tonight so we arrive in good daylight tomorrow. Although I have good coordinates on this place from several sources, I can’t bring myself to get within 5 miles of it at night!
    We’ve been making steady progress all three days. We haven’t seen another boat since the first night out of Raro. The weather has been absolutely perfect. It seems like it’s getting slightly warmer again as we head a little back to the north but we still miss our old friend the Equator. At night it dips down in the 60’s. We’ll okay, 68, but that seems really cold out here on the ocean!

    I had to run the engine a few hours to charge the batteries night before last but other than that we’ve been sailing along in silence. I took the chance in Raro to completelly fill up on fuel. I didn’t know when I’d see a price as good as $1.55 a liter (around $6/gallon) so I dropped by the harbormaster’s office to order up the fuel truck for delivery. They came down to the quai and I’m sure they were happy I called. After I took on 150 liters, six other boats announced they’d like fuel and finished out most of the 1000 liters they brought in the truck! As of now I’ve got a full 50 gallon tank, 30 extra gallons on decks, and I barely burn a half gallon per hour. So we’re good on fuel for quite a while now especially since after this passage the jumps are mostly 1-3 days through Fiji and we have plenty of time to wait for weather windows.

    Assuming all goes well, I’ll write again tomorrow night from anchor at Beveridge. I gotta go slow her down again. We’re up over seven knots and it’s barely blowing 20!

  • Left Raro-Sailing to Beveridge Reef

    We pulled out of Raro last night just before dark. I left feeling almost sorry for the place. Such a great island with such a horrible harbor. I guess it’s not always so bad but we inadvertently timed our stay with two passing troughs of low pressure that brought northerly winds, sunless skies, and a chill in the air. When we first arrived, the idea of not having to use the outboard motor to get into the dock seemed a relief. When the second northerly blew in this weekend it became a struggle to get the dinghy back and forth the few yards from quai to boat without getting your head ripped off by a neighbor’s lines. People were dropping anchors on top of other people’s anchors, words were getting exchanged, cleats and stanchions were popping off boats, Dosia was covered in dirt blowing off the quai; my little voice said “let’s get the hell out of here.” So we did. And now we’re over 100 miles out and sailing along blissfully under a full mizzen, double-reefed main, and full genoa. As soon as the wind backs around another 15 degrees, up goes the spinnaker and we will hopefully coast right into Beveridge Reef. We had homemade beef stew for dinner last night, homemade lasagne coming tonight, and the meals are planned for the rest of the trip assuming we don’t catch any fish…whenever I get around to throwing out some lines. This is sailing at its best and we’re having a ball. It’s blowing 10 knots on our beam, a few gusts up to 15 and we’re doing anywhere from 4.5-6 knots in easy-riding seas. Even Marge, the anti-passagemaker can’t complain in these conditions. If all goes to plan, we’ll arrive at Beveridge Saturday morning or midday for a mid ocean rest stop. One or two night’s stay depending on weather. No land, just reef and a lagoon. One of those weird mid-ocean anomalies. As always, I’m hoping to get Marge in the water with some sharks! Check it out on google. Peace.
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