Get Lost On Purpose

Blog

  • A slice of humble pie…

    Island life in Aitutaki thus far is fantastic! Our family of buds on s/v Zen got two scooters of their own so we’ve formed our own little “Hells Angels” and we’re cruising the roads in style! Long gone are the mountainous landscapes and cascading hills of Moorea, Tahiti, Bora Bora, and heaven forbid that one in Huahine (which I never hope to encounter again). Those islands were gorgeous, no doubt, but Aitutaki has provided us with it’s own beauty in a much different setting. The roads of this island are mostly flat with a few rolling hills nestled in. Mango, papaya, starfruit, breadfruit, pamplemousse, and mandarin trees are in abundance and instead of dogs (like in the Society Islands), the streets are lined with goats and roosters. In fact, there are no dogs anywhere on this island because they were blamed many years ago for a leprosy outbreak.

    I’ve mentioned to Drew several times throughout this trip that in living on Dosia, in a confined space, I have learned just how little I can live without. I am all for microwaves, hot water showers, being able to blow dry and straighten my hair, air conditioning, and yes, the occasional gossip magazine. And honestly, call me shallow, prior to September of last year I would have laughed if someone told me that not only was I capable of functioning minus those luxuries, but that I could do it and I would enjoy it. It’s only when I think I am living “without” that we arrive on an island like Aitutaki and it kicks my butt right back into place and reminds me what really living “without” could mean.

    Imagine, back in the States, wanting a hot dog. Easy enough, right? You get in your car, you go to the store (sometimes reluctantly because the couch was oh so comfy), not only do you buy your hot dog but you have your choice of beef, chicken, bratwurst, turkey, sausage, and cheese filled. You go home, you make your dog, and you enjoy. Well imagine wanting a hot dog but having to wait four or five weeks for it because the ship that delivers your groceries wasn’t able to get to your island that month!!! Thus was the case some time ago in Aitutaki. A ship delivers goods and groceries to this island once a month and upon our arrival it had come the week prior. So what we saw in the stores was what we were going to get and while the stores here are nice, they are no Carrefour. Thank heavens we have frozen chicken breasts and bacon in the freezer because we’ve yet to come across any here on the island. I can only imagine that when the shelves are freshly stocked that there is a mad rush, similar to the newest video game release back home, for the locals to grab what they can of the stuff that is really, really valuable to them before it is all gotten and gone, like fresh meats and cheeses.

    So for those who are born and raised on this island, what they’ve never had, they can’t miss and the way they receive their goods is the only way they know so to them, it’s normal. For me, it’s a learning experience and one from which I can only hope teaches me and helps me grow as a person. One day, when Drew and I are back into our norm, and that trip to the grocery store seems more like a chore and hassle than a luxury, hopefully the memory of Aitutaki and these people will flash into my mind. Instead of being bothered, I’ll just be glad it’s there and in the present, and for that, incredibly appreciative…

  • Arrived in Aitutaki, Cook Islands

    Pulling out of Bora Bora on Saturday morning, we knew we were in for a rough ride. I had reached that point where I was ready to leave no matter what. We were 8 days past our “legal” date in French Polynesia, out of French Poly cash and tired of the prices, bored with the food (except that Reuben at Blood Mary’s), and oh so ready to see something new. We were attempting our first passage since last year and of course, Margie’s second ever, so we knew there would be some adjustment time to get used to the movement and life at sea. We had two meals prepared and ready to cook. I set up the blog so we could update by email and keep everyone posted on the 485 mile passage. Three hours after we pulled out of the pass we hit our first rain. Soon after, the random 12-13 foot southern waves started rolling in on our nice 8-10′ southeasterly sets. The wind gusts rose into the 30-35 knot range and by 3:30 we were sitting in the cockpit in our foul weather gear surfing down waves at 8.5 knots thinking hmm…I’m not that hungry any more and let’s just keep that computer where it is. Just after nightfall we finally gave up the cockpit and did watches from below. Those intermittent southerly swells would come out of nowhere, slap the side of the hull, and crash across the entire boat drenching anything in the path. We made 162 miles the first 24 hours which was actually slower than I thought we’d be but I think it was the wave height slowing us down. Sunday came with absolutely no improvement in the weather so we sat below all day, hatch boards in, reading and trying to keep the nausea under control. We did manage to get down a couple of tuna fish sandwiches. Day two put 151 more miles out of the way and by late Monday morning the winds and seas had abated some so I put out the full genoa. That along with the mizzen carried us at 7 knots till late night Monday. Then the wind died all together. We wanted to make it to the pass at Aitutaki with some good daylight on Tuesday so with the help of the engine we came around the northern coast at noon.
     
    Then came the pass. I circled around the front of it saying “is that it?!?” for about 15 minutes before finally dropping anchor on the outside (in the swell) so we could explore it by dinghy first and see what we were up against. It looked like the dinghy was gonna run aground in the pass as I entered so I couldn’t imagine taking Dosia in. I discovered it was dead low as one tide program had suggested (the other, of course, said the exact opposite) and we would have to roll around and wait a couple of hours before we could safely enter on the “big” boat. It was nice being able to dinghy around the anchorage and chose out my spot beforehand without coming in blind. About 4pm we wrestled the anchor off a coral head on the outside and headed in. Dosia’s draft is 5.1″ and the shallowest I saw was 5.8″. I had spent an afternoon in Bora Bora calibrating the gauges just for this pass and I was happy I did. Once inside we headed up the small outer channel into 2 knots of current and dropped anchor. As I write this I have three anchors out. Two off the bow and one stern anchor. At full tidal outflow, the current runs probably three knots and where we’re sitting it tends to push on the starboard side of the boat so I feel more comfortable with some extra protection out. The bottom is rocky in places so you gotta check your anchors and make sure they’re set. I have one bow anchor in sand and the other wrapped around a rocky head. This boat ain’t going nowhere and that’s good cause with our smoking scooter rental (code named “Scoot Scoot”) we don’t plan on spending much time on the boat! Yep, that’s right…we got transport for at least the next week. $100NZ ($65US) for a week cannot be beat. Especially when that was the cost for one day’s rental in French Polynesia. This place is G-R-E-A-T! It is wonderful to be back in a country with some sort of earthly pricing. It’s just as beautiful (if not more in my opinion) and with the same friendly South Pacific people. And here they speak English!
     
    Apparently there was a funeral on the island today and with a mere population of about 600 people, it drew the likes of many of the locals, including those in customs so that was closed. We’ll check in tomorrow and be clear to explore the rest of what we’ve already decided is going to be awesome destination!

  • Sunset Bars & Spinnaker Sailing

    Saturday morning brought with it gloomy skies and clouds that hovered right on the tip of Otemanu Mountain. One glance at the glassy surface of the water and off we went in search of the manta rays we heard were hanging out on the eastern most tip of the island. Saw several eagle rays but no mantas. With the sun trying to poke through later that morning we headed over to the St. Regis. Again, no problems dinghying up and checking out the property. For those of you who followed our journey last year, you may remember us talking about running into Vince Vaughn, Jon Favreau, & Jason Bateman in Tahiti. Couples Retreat, the movie they were in French Poly to shoot, was filmed at the St. Regis resort.

    Set on 44 acres, the St. Regis offers 91 overwater and beach villas, 3 restaurants, two pools, a spa located on a separate island, and the Royal Estate, which is a 3 bedroom retreat that includes its own private island, pool, and chef’s kitchen all for the low, low bargain price of $15,000 a night. The whole resort is obviously very luxurious but unfortunately it was a ghost town! Drew liked the layout there better while I was more partial to the Four Seasons.

    That night we joined Jeff & Julie for drinks and dinner at the Sunset Bar back at the Four Seasons. They have a brand new thai chef with an all new sushi and thai menu. Drew and I both had a salad that was great while Julie & Jeff had the pad thai with tofu and shrimp. Their dishes came out looking so good I had to be rude and ask for a taste. Shouldn’t have done it. Delicious! Been craving it ever since…
    P1060121 P1060119
    Sunday morning we woke up and both made calls back home to wish both our dads a happy fathers day. Always great to speak to the family. After catching a morning cruise with Zen, Drew had to drag me off of their catamaran. So spacious and such a different feeling than a monohull. No worries though, Dosia, you’re still #1! Jeff, on Flashback, pulled out his spinnaker sail later that afternoon and we all got to do some spinnaker sailing. Best way to describe the spinnaker sail is that it is that big, poofy, oftentimes colorful, sail you usually see on sailboats. When set up right with ropes attached like a swing, if the wind catches that thing you will go flying! Cole and Monique, of Zen, probably took top flights that day and got a good 45 to 50 feet off the water. All with Mt. Otemanu in the backdrop. We had such a great time! We’re going to hate to leave both French Polynesia and the company of the great people we’ve been sharing these waters with for the past few months but we know we’ll see them again somewhere down the water. And we’re already looking forward to it. We’ll see you in Aitutaki, the Cook Islands!
    P1060133 P1060129 P1060148

  • Getting a feel for the “good” life : )

    Dressed in our best (which for us these days is anything without a stain), Drew held out his hands and did the all too intriguing “pick one.” Oh…decisions, decisions…okay, left one. 4S. “Okay, looks like today it’s the Four Seaons, tomorrow the St. Regis.” Not knowing whether we’d even be allowed in the resort, we wanted to at least look presentable. Drew even went so far as to pull out a buttondown shirt. “Babe, we’re hopefully going to be poolside and it’s 95 degrees out. I don’t even think Bill Gates would have one on if he were here.” I admired his thought process and found it ridiculously cute.

    Surprisingly when we dinghied up to their shuttle docks we got nothing more than a wave and a Tahitian hello. I think somewhere in my mind I had conguered up that because movie stars and the elite are known to frequent here that there would be top notch security and hip designers and jewelers represented on every man and woman in sight. Quite the opposite, actually, and we blended right in.

    We toured the grounds, which included a “kiddy island” for the folks to send their offspring to, 121 hideaways, three restaurants, a spa, a fitness center, and a project underway to build private residencies so that for the right price you can become a homeowner on the property! That’s lovely and all but I was more interested in the gym. That was the first time I’d felt air conditioning in two months : )
    P1060069 P1060070

    We found our way to the pool and sat at the bar to get a couple of drinks. Drew told the bartender we were visiting from the St. Regis. No questions asked, the bartender started us a tab by name that we were to simply pay at the front desk when we left the resort. Easy enough! I was so happy!!! Nothing like being in paradise IN paradise. We spent several hours sitting by the pool drinking beers and eating lunch. The lunch was mediocre but at $27 for a panini, I assume we were paying for the atmosphere more so than the food. Nonetheless, a good time was had by all and we’re looking forward to comparing the St. Regis tomorrow. Wait…we should know already…how quickly I forget we are staying there : )
    P1060041 P1060083